Previously we looked at the skills needed to bind a replacement guide onto a rod.
In the second part to Basic Rod Repairs TOM KAMINSKAS looks at applying an epoxy finish to complete a professional job.
Having bound your new guide onto the rod it is now time to apply a hard protective coating to the thread.
The best choice is one of the specialised two-part epoxy rod finishes available. Epoxy comes in two parts, a resin and hardener.
These separate components cause a chemical reaction when they come into contact with each other.
The rate at which the mix will harden and the quality of the end result is determined by two main factors: the ratio of resin to hardener, and the weather conditions at the time of application.
Most epoxy rod finishes need the two parts to be mixed at a ratio of 1:1 to achieve consistently successful results.
This ratio may vary, so follow the manufacturer's instructions, but make sure to always measure exact quantities.
Try and work on a day of fine, warm weather with relatively low humidity. Avoid wet, cold days which may cause the mix to set soft and tacky with a cloudy appearance. Also avoid very hot or humid days which will cause the mix to set too quickly and become too runny to work with.
It may be necessary to heat the room you are working in to a stable 20 to 25 degrees, or use the air-conditioning to bring the temperature and humidity down in warmer weather.
Before you start, remember that epoxy resins are harmful to your health if not handled safely. Choose an area that is well ventilated, and consider wearing disposable surgical gloves to prevent contact with bare skin.
Bindings may be prepared with a thread preserver and filler.
This step is not essential for basic repairs, but will help fill any air spaces between the threads resulting in fewer bubbles when applying the epoxy finish.
Several coats of filler should be applied, allowing 24 hours drying time before applying the epoxy.
Find a clean, even surface to mix the epoxy on, such as an ice cream container lid or a piece of aluminium foil.
Measure exact quantities of each part. The easiest way to achieve this is by using small plastic syringes with graduated measurements, available from most chemists. Use a separate syringe for measuring each part.
A small piece of drinking straw or plastic tubing attached to the end of the syringe helps to extract each part from narrow mouthed bottles.
Mix the two parts together thoroughly with an ice cream stick or plastic spoon.
With the rod resting on rollers or across your lap, use a small and very fine-bristled paintbrush to apply a thin even coat to saturate all exposed thread.
Allow a minute or two for this to soak in, then, while keeping the rod turning, apply a second thicker coat extending several millimetres onto the rod past the binding.
The finish should be just thick enough so that you can no longer distinguish the texture of the threads.
Pass it back and forth about 20 or 30cm above the wet finish, keeping the rod slowly turning.
The rod now needs to be kept continuously turning, slowly and evenly, until the finish is firm enough so that it will not run.
Turn the rod every quarter of an hour after that until it is no longer tacky to the touch, and then allow at least 48 hours for it to cure before use.
Email a friend